In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the celery, onion, and carrot and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Add the ground beef, nutmeg, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, breaking up the meat with your spoon or a large whisk, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, pulse the tomatoes in a food processor until they look like a coarse puree.
When the meat has absorbed all of the juices in the pot, add both wines, the tomato puree, and 4 cups of water. Reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, for 3 hours. If the sauce gets too thick, add more water. Season with salt.
In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Strain and return to the pot. Ladle some of the sauce onto the pasta and toss. Divide between four bowls and serve right away.